Reverse Design A Current Scientific Vision From the International Fashion and Design Congress

The collaboration between the Textile Department of the University of Minho and the Brazilian Association of Studies and Research (ABEPEM) has led to an international platform for the exchange of research in the field of Fashion and Design: CIMODE. This platform is designed as a biennial congress that takes place in different European and Latin American countries with the co-organization of another university in each location.The current edition was jointly organized by the University of Minho and the Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda (CSDMM) - Universidad Politécnica de Madrid. CIMODE's mission is to explore fashion and design from a social, cultural, psychological and communication perspective, and to bring together different approaches and perceptions of practice, education and the culture of design and fashion. Through an interdisciplinary dialogue and intercultural perspective, CIMODE wants to generate and present new scenarios about the present and future of fashion and design. ‘DISEÑO AL REVÉS’ (‘BACKWARD DESIGN’) was the central theme of the 4th CIMODE (Madrid, Spain, 21-23 May 2018), which produced a highly topical and relevant number of academic publications presented in this book.

Fashion and communication Performative runway in backstage liquidity A. Rabàdan & I. Bentz From hair to cultivated leather—the use of Alexander McQueen’s genetic information B.F. Pires & R.P. Cidreira The relevance of sketches in fashion design A. Moreira da Silva Digital banners as shop windows: Narrative constructions of online fashion brands D.V. Leal, D. Karam Jr. & M.C.P. Rodrigues The influence of soap operas in Brazilian fashion today T.C. Viana, A.A. Silva, A. Adverse, R. Ribeiro & A. Horta The world and the fashion “al revés” in António Variações M. Amaro Facets of youth culture: Discursive construction of Ahlma fashion brand B. Machado & M. Scoz Fashion films: A semiotics approach, a multimodal signification R. Effe The importance of language on the social medias of a brand M.H. de Carvalho & F.A.H. de Carvalho The effects of sense contained in the fashion advertising text: The Handred brand and the reiteration of genderless concept S.F. Bona & M. Scoz Analysis of attributes in unisex and genderless clothing B.M. Reis, R. Miguel, N.A. Jerónimo, M. Pereira & S. Azevedo Embroidery: The narrative of the ribbon of the presentation of Arthur Bispo do Rosário—confluences with contemporary visual artists L.U. Dantas, U.S.T. Barbosa, G.M.J. Sales, H.A. Dieb & R.R. Marques Eye tracking in fashion: An overview A.P. Faria, B. Providência & J. Cunha Fashion, identities and cultures Semiology: Culture as a symbol system and western influences comparison before and after the independence of 1947 L. Vignes A geography of fashion, Medellín: 1900–1950 W. Cruz Bermeo The Prêt-à-porter phenomenon and the boutiques in the dowtown area of Santiago, Chile J. Vidal Miranda & P. Álvarez Caselli Internationalism and exoticism in the image of Aline Romanones and Consuelo Crespi D. Gennaioli Reframing old age through design: An approach to promote empowerment I. Rojas & B. Pino Dolce and Gabbana and Louis Vuitton: A study on the effect of gender stereotyping in the 21st century fashion campaigns L. Watson Fashion, identity and culture in the Chinese fashion system. China, inspiration for Chinese fashion designers R. Gaddi The pleasurable dressing of Loewe: From the store of Martínez-Feduchi to the showroom of Carvajal A. Cano Redondo & A. Martínez-Medina Signifying the ritual legends of Brazilian Afro Religions: Candomblé and Umbanda in Teresina/Piauí/Brazil L.C. de M. Tavares & V.P. de S. Araújo Globalized brazilianness on the forming way of “Elementais” G.R.R. Vieira Class tourism, working-class porn and cultural appropriation in fashion: An introduction M. Glück Affection sewn into hats: Identity, self-esteem, women’s social relations G.P. Lenzi The lace fabric of Bahia clothing: From artisanal to industrial A. Okasaki Fashion design and craftwork: Subjectivation policies in the contemporary scenario A.R.V. Peroba & C. Mesquita Chinese fashion, occidental fashion: A semiotic translation Y. Pan The fashion design as a contribution to the preservation of Nazaré culture and costumes: 7 project S. Moreira, M. Pereira, A. Cruchinho, J.M. Lucas & R. Miguel DIY and the slow fashion movement: Sew for yourself L. Barrocas, G. Bezerra & M.A.V. Rocha Modes and Fashions of the colonial man from Minas Gerais: The indumentary of the defendants of the inconfidence of Minas Gerais A.F.B. Santos & A.P.X. Vilela The aesthetics in fashion design and cultural studies T. Lobo The physiological aspects of senescence: Comfort and relationship with the clothing M.D. Almeida, A.C. Broega & M. Moura Fashion design through sustainability and material culture: An exploratory and experimental study R. Norogrando Castelo Branco embroidery applied to clothing A. Cruchinho, A.S. Marcelo, P. Peres & A. Moura Female jeans: The aesthetic of Brazilian “popular fashion” I. Braga, M.J. Abreu & M.M. Oliveira The liberation of women in the 19th and early 20th centuries as seen through costume L. Luceño The Minho traditional costume as cultural heritage in fashion design S. Castro, J. Cunha & C. Morais The casualisation and homogeneity of contemporary fashion F. Spry Product design Practices of design: Understanding processes A. Rabàdan Contemporary textile products. Knitting as a fertile design ground for experimentation with 3D technologies G.M. Conti Clothing as an architectural project B. Alcoceba Marking embroidery in colors: The creative fashion process in AMAC, in São João dos Patos – MA M.S. Lima, R.G. Noronha & L.R. da Silva Miramar embroiderers, design and territory F.P. Vallejos Strategic approach to implement sustainability in the joineries of the city of Uberlândia, Brazil F. Moreira da Silva & J. Cardoso Braga A proposed procedure to develop clothing for pregnant women D.A.N. Mentone, R.H. Osava, S.H.A. Gomes, R.A. Sanches & A.Y.S. Duarte Functional fashion focused on the needs of people with disabilities L.N. Souza, S.H.A. Gomes, C.R.G. Vicentini, R.A. Sanches & A.Y.S. Duarte Designing for emotions: Evaluation of the drooler, a toy for preschoolers B. Providência, R. Brandão & P.B. Albuquerque Creativity and industrial fashion design—reviews, analyses and connexions J.A.B. Barata, R. Miguel & S. Azevedo Procedures and guidelines for the instruction and execution of pattern making: An analysis P.A.A. Spaine, D.M. Brito, L.M. Pereira, N. Pinheiro & R.R. Andrade Anthropometry and clothing for overweight and obese children: A literature review R. Campos & M.A. Carvalho The materialization of fashion products: An experience of the textile behavior P.M. Souza, M.M. Otani, P.P. Silva & I.C. Italiano Design and redesign G. Montagna & M.J. Delgado Marketing and consumption Psychographic segmentation of female fashion consumers in Portugal B. Moreira & A. Azevedo Taxhion. Model taxonomy clothing and accessories e-commerce B. Alcoceba, M. García-Ergüín, R. García, D. de las Heras & M. Adsuara Cultural values of minimalist fashion A.P. de Miranda, I. Domingues & N. Souza Emerging platforms for fashion design entrepreneurs: An assessment C.E. Fernandes, L. Ribeiro, M.S. Silva, M. Pereira & M.J. Madeira The use of online advertisement as a TXM branding methodology’s tool: FARM’s case study L.W. Ribeiro & L.S. Gomez The influence of social network sites on digital branding M. Barreto & L. Ribeiro Teaching and education Teaching design in real contexts to preserve local identity and memory A.H. Grácio & C. Rijo Immersive business simulation in footwear design education: A bridge for reality A.M. Terroso, A. Moreno, N. Amorim, H. Palmares & J. Sampaio Bounding fields of knowledge: Co-designing regional pottery of the Cávado sub-region as a strategic potential of museological differentiation and product development J. Sampaio, A. Baganha, F. Gomes & A.M. Terroso A case study of didactic laboratory approach in fashion design education X. Lin & A. Dell’Acqua Feminine magazines and the development of the female labor force in Valparaiso: Analysis of the graphic system of the Rosita magazine (1947–1972) as a didactic strategy for the informal learning of sewing F. Gonzalez, U. Bravo & C. Ruiz Bê a Bá of sewing: Our online friend L.C. de M. Tavares & J.P.C. de Brito Professional education and the formation of garments factory in Brazil V. Feldman & M.S.B. de Held Complex geometry and patterns: Colonizing the surrounding space through the costume M.J. Climent Mondéjar, M.P. Moreno Moreno & A. Cano Redondo Project thinking in fashion design: Strategies for facilitating cognitive and metacognitive processes M.C.F. Sanches & M.A.R. Silva Pattern making books: An analysis of documentary research P.A.A. Spaine, D.M. Brito, L.M. Pereira, N. Pinheiro & R.R. Andrade Interdisciplinarity: Creation of looks and techniques used by UFPE CAA students A. Camargo & R. Alves Active applied methodologies on fashion design teaching: Pos

Ana Cristina Breoga has a PhD in Textile Engineering - Textile Physics (Branch: Comfort) and Master's degreein Textile Design and Marketing from the University of Minho, Portugal. She is currently an Assistant Professor at the University of Minho, working in the 1st cycle courses in Fashion Design and Marketing and in the Master in Design and Marketing in the following disciplines: Apparel Design, Fashion Accessories Design (Footwear), Collection Preparation and Comfort and Physiology of Clothing. She has been a researcher at the Textile Science and Technology Center of the University of Minho since 1997. Joana Cunha is an Assistant Professor at the University of Minho. She teaches in the 1st cycle in Fashion Design and Marketing as well as in Masters in Design and Marketing and Fashion Communication Design courses. Joana is currently the director of the Fashion Design PhD course and chair of the Scientific Committee of the International Conference on Fashion and Design (CIMODE). Her main research interests are in design and emotional design methodologies applied to the field of fashion and textile design. Helder Carvalho graduated in Electrotechnical and Computer Engineering in 1992 at the University of Porto, Portugal. He concluded his MSc and PhD in Textile Engineering at the University of Minho between1998 and 2004. He is currently a teacher and researcher at the University of Minho, as Assistant Professor at the Department of Textile Engineering. In recent years he has been developing work at various interfaces between Product Design and Engineering, especially Textile and Fashion Design. Helder is coordinator of the MSc course in Design and Marketing and has been part of the coordinating committee of the BSc course in Fashion Design and Marketing at the University of Minho since 2005. Manuel Blanco is Dean of the Escuela Técnica Superior de Arquitectura de Madrid, Architecture School of the Universidad Politécnica de Madrid (ETSAM-UPM). Heobtaineda PhD in Architecture and was appointed Full Professorin the Department of Architectonic Composition.Manuel has curated a vast number of exhibitions worldwide (Madrid, Rome, Tokyo, New York, Chicago, Moscow, Panama, among others). He is also member of the ICAM (International Confederation of Architectural Museums), andwas the first director of the Museo Nacional de Arquitectura y Urbanismo (2007), Salamanca, Spain. Guillermo García-Badell is Dean of the Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda de Madrid, Fashion Design Center of the Universidad Politécnica de Madrid (CSDMM-UPM). He studied Architectureat the UPM de Madrid, and obtained a PhD in Marketing Research at the Faculty of Economic Sciences of the Universidad Complutense de Madrid. He is currently Professor of Fundamental Design,andlectures in several postgraduate degrees. Guillermo has participated in different national and international competitions and his architecture and design proposalshave been presented in exhibitions and published in numerous media,earningvarious awards. Diana Lucía concluded her PhD in Art History in 2015 at the University Complutense of Madrid, obtaining the Extraordinary Doctorate Award. She hasconducted research stays in London and Rome, and taught at the Unvierisdad Complutense de Madrid, the Universidades Norteamericanas Reunidas, ESERP Business School, and the Senior University of the Colegio de Doctores y Licenciados en Filosofía y Letras y en Ciencias de la Comunidad de Madrid. Dinahas been Adjunct Teacher at the Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda de la Universidad Politécnica de Madrid (CSDMM-UPM) since 2017, where she teaches History of Arts and Design.