FABRIC, FORM AND FLAT PATTERN CUTTING

One of the more difficult aspects of a designer's training is learning how to create patterns that make full use of the characteristics of individual fabrics. With an ever increasing range of fabrics available to the designer, an understanding of the relationship between fabric, form and pattern shape is now probably the most important skill a designer has to acquire. This book discusses the factors that need to be taken into consideration and offers a unique and practical method for solving problems. Its approach to design and flat pattern cutting is based on the appraisal of the fabric (according to a scale of five for each of five fabric characteristics - weight, thickness, sheer, drape and stretch) and body shape. The book is lavishly illustrated and makes use of numerous practical examples.

Paperback, 415 b&w ill. One of the more difficult aspects of a designer's training is learning how to create patterns that make full use of the characteristics of individual fabrics. With an ever increasing range of fabrics available to the designer, an understanding of the relationship between fabric, form and pattern shape is now probably the most important skill a designer has to acquire. This book discusses the factors that need to be taken into consideration and offers a unique and practical method for solving problems. Its approach to design and flat pattern cutting is based on the appraisal of the fabric (according to a scale of five for each of five fabric characteristics - weight, thickness, sheer, drape and stretch) and body shape. The book is lavishly illustrated and makes use of numerous practical examples. Contents: INTRODUCTION. PART ONE: FABRIC ESTIMATION FOR PATTERN CUTTING. A technical overview of fabrics. A categorisation for designers and pattern cutters. A categorised range of fabrics. PART TWO: FABRIC AND FORM. Fabrics and garment forms. Enveloping the body shape. Fitting the body shape: woven fabrics. PART THREE: FABRIC, FORM AND FLAT PATTERN CUTTING. Exploiting fabric characteristics (crossway cutting, knitted and stretch fabrics). Combining fabrics. Subverting fabrics: adding extra structure. PART FOUR: MODEL FIGURES AND GARMENT BLOCKS. Model figures. The one-fifth scale garment blocks. Appendices. Bibliography. References.