Textiles, Identity and Innovation: Design the Future Proceedings of the 1st International Textile Design Conference (D_TEX 2017), November 2-4, 2017, Lisbon, Portugal

D_TEX presents itself as a starting point at a crossroads of ideas and debates around the complex universe of Textile Design in all its forms, manifestations and dimensions. The textile universe, allied to mankind since its beginnings, is increasingly far from being an area of exhausted possibilities, each moment proposing important innovations that need a presentation, discussion and maturation space that is comprehensive and above all inter- and transdisciplinary. Presently, the disciplinary areas where the textile area is present are increasing and important, such as fashion, home textiles, technical clothing and accessories, but also construction and health, among others, and can provide new possibilities and different disciplinary areas and allowing the production of new knowledge. D_TEX proposes to join the thinking of design, with technologies, tradition, techniques, and related areas, in a single space where ideas are combined with the technique and with the projectual and research capacity, thus providing for the creation of concepts, opinions, associations of ideas, links and connections that allow the conception of ideas, products and services. The interdisciplinary nature of design is a reality that fully reaches the textile material in its essence and its practical application, through the synergy and contamination by the different interventions that make up the multidisciplinary teams of research. The generic theme of D_TEX Textile Design Conference 2017, held at Lisbon School of Architecture of the University of Lisbon, Portugal on November 2-4, 2017, is Design the Future, starting from the crossroads of ideas and debates, a new starting point for the exploration of textile materials, their identities and innovations in all their dimensions.

1. Textile 1.1.Weaving and knitting The use of textiles in AnneWilson and Kathrin Stumreich’s work I.P.G. Jorge Selection and training of a panel of evaluators for sensory analysis of tactile comfort in Brazil R.N. Nagamatsu, M.J. Abreu, C.D. Santiago & I. Braga The interactivity between sales channels on omni-channel retail M.J. Abreu & C.D. Miranda Technological evolution in fashion product knitwear companies G. Montagna, L. Piccinini & M.P. Carvalhinha Pilot study to convert an existing model into a zero waste pattern and cutting system A. Simões & R. Almendra The textile in seismic architecture: A reinforcement solution A.J. Morais, J. Afonso &A.D. Basto 1.2. Surface, digital and virtual textiles An analysis of 3D printed textile structures E. Grain Fashion illustration on the surface design products created by designer Ronaldo Fraga R. Bessa &A.M. Barbosa When clothing comfort meets aesthetics L.L. Matté, A.C. Broega & M.E.B. Pinto Sublimation, color and emotion F.M. Marques Digital imaging: Textile surfaces and the virtual environment L. Santos & G. Montagna Costume and characters’ construction in cinematographic fiction and drama C.M. Figueiredo &A. Cabral 1.3. Textile products The fabric of belonging: Place-based textile community engagement A. Marr Telaio 31: A hybridization between creativity, experimental and industrial process P. Ranzo, P. Maddaluno & G. Gentile A new way for the bobbin lace tradition I. Bieger, C. Carvalho & G. Montagna Comparative study of the main physical properties of denim fabrics used in jeans manufacture L.N. Souza, R.A. Sanches, H.A. Gomes, C.R.G. Vicentini & F.M. Moreira da Silva Textile elements in a design project of children’s furniture C. Salvador Ergonomic clothing design for care-dependent elderly women A. Caldas, M. Carvalho, H. Lopes & M. Souza Textile design experiments for automotive innovation M.A. Sbordone, G. Gentile & G. Cesaro Comparative study of the manufacturing technologies of Sports Bras aiming at adjusting the productive processes of the Brazilian apparel enterprises to the model Industry 4.0 F.M.P. Silva, A.Y.S. Duarte,W.C. Ming, R.A. Sanches & F.M. Silva 2. Identity 2.1. Textile art Our past and future relationship with textiles C. Gale Focus on textiles – performance studies Â. Orbay &A. Mendes Brazil’s social representation of Dom João VI in the literary work of Oliveira Lima: Fashion, habits, customs and urban aspects M. Araújo, M.S. Barros de Held & J.P. Pereira Marcicano Textile design in lace: Creative practice based on collections study V. Felippi, E. Rütschilling & G. Perry Fashion: Spokesman of a generation that will not be silent V. Szabo, M. Mendes dos Santos, P. Maria da Silva Costa, M.S. Barros de Held & J.P. Pereira Marcicano Before textile • after wall J. Afonso A woven language: Tais as an expression of Timorese culture identity M.J. Sacchetti Textiles as media for visual identity M. Neves 2.2. Culture and craft Textile semantics: Perception and memory S. Andrew Multiculturalism in fashion design: A case study of three emergent designers in Macau A. Cardoso & J. Cordeiro Textiles as a tool for social cohesion and active aging in social projects: Cases exploring the creative dimension of participants A. Souza, R. Almendra, R. Porto &A. Vasconcelos Cultural theory and textile manufacture L. Tigre & M. Araujo IN-Between. Designing within complexity F. Vacca & C. Cavanna Cultural territories: Textile constructions in the work of the stylist André Lima O. Maneschy &Y. Maia Ornamentation of textile surfaces: Proposal of classification and application in fashion events in Minas Gerais, Brazil W.G. Amorim & M.R.A.C. Dias The charm of nonchalant elegance. Stories of Sicilian tailoring for men G.M. Conti Warps and textures in symbology A.A. Quintas 2.3. Marketing and consumption Design Camp LOGO UFSC: A proposition of immersive experience in the textile market for design students N.C. Salvi, I.L. Guedes, F.P. Pasqualotto, L.S.R. Gomez & M.M. Gonçalves Genderless clothing issues in fashion B. Reis, M. Pereira, S. Azevedo, N. Jerónimo & R. Miguel U.MAKE.ID fashion sourcing platform project M. Pereira, B. Reis, L. Pina, R. Miguel & P. Rafael Making textiles talk: An experimental e-textile workshop S. U?gur Yavuz & N. Cohen Footwear customization: A win-win shared experience N. Oliveira & J. Cunha Competitiveness in the textile industry due to electronic commerce D.V. Leal, G.L. Toledo & D.K. Junior Charles FrederickWorth and the birth of Haute Couture: Fashion design and textile renewal in the times of conspicuous consumption M.J. Pereira Neto 3. Innovation 3.1. Technical and smart textiles Shape memory alloy knitted fabrics: Functional fabrics that work K. Eschen & J. Abel SunPlumLimeBerry, a collaborative textile design and manufacturing illuminated wool carpet project S. Heffernan Smart textiles in the performing arts A. Martinez, M. Honauer, H. Sandhaus & E. Hornecker Functionalization of cotton fabric with chitosan microspheres containing triclosan L.G. Magalhães, C.S.A. de Lima, S.M. da Costa, A.C.S. Santos & S.A. da Costa Smart textiles in architecture A.C. d’Oliveira, G. Montagna & J. Nicolau Technological clothing as an element of innovation: Survey of young Portuguese users C. Carvalho, G. Montagna, H. Carvalho &A. Catarino 3.2. Sustainable textiles Sustainability of textile and fashion supply chain: Case study approach S. Azevedo, R. Miguel & P. Mesquita The possible use of the fish leather in a lingerie confection: Approach to the Amazon T. Figueredo & N. Silva Traditional techniques of Portuguese tapestry as the basis of a sustainable construction for fashion C. Morais, G. Montagna & M. Veloso Sustainable textiles – A review on strategies for product lifetime extension V. Januário, R. Salvado & S. U?gur Yavuz Sustainability through traditional processes: Strategy of “Salva a Lã Portuguesa” for revival of natural wool M. Pacheco & E. Bazaraite Design of sustainable textiles through biological systems and materials – innovative narratives within the circular economy G.S. Forman & C. Carvalho Textile sustainability: Reuse of wastes from the textile and clothing industry in Brazil C. Jordão, A.C. Broega & S. Martins In direction to sustainable textile roofs in architecture and design C. Alho 3.3. Teaching, research and education The tactual experience of textiles in fashion design education I. Simoes, F. Silva & N. Nogueira Teaching sustainable fashion and textiles T.B. Lobo Methodology to study the creativity of Portuguese fashion designers J. Barata, R. Miguel & S. Azevedo The teaching of materials in fashion design: The importance of holistic platforms A.M. Luís & L. Santos Design – Non-fabrics – A practical case for the Castelo Branco Embroidery A.M.P. Fernandes & C. Carvalho The relevance of different players on the design project: Garment, identity, motivation and social innovation J. Oenning, J. Cunha, J.B. Garcia Jr Graphic design and textiles: Visual appropriations in Sebastião Rodrigues’work E. Rolo Sustainable fashion design: Social responsibility and cross-pollination! F. Moreira da Silva Towards artistic children’s education with textiles: A K10 challenge M.J. Delgado & I.D. Almeida

Gianni Montagna holds a PhD in Design from the Faculty of Architecture of the University of Lisbon since 2012, with a thesis on the application of smart systems to clothing, teaches Fashion Design at the first academic year of the Masters in Fashion Design and often teaches other disciplines at the same institution, as in the case of Accessory Design. In the textile development laboratory (D_TEX) of the Faculty of Architecture of Lisbon, he is responsible for the area of Textile Design and is responsible for the discipline of Laboratory III of the PhD in Design as well as professor of the subject of Textiles for the Architecture of the PhD program in Architecture of the same Faculty. He is the scientific coordinator of the International Congress on Textile Design "D_TEX _ Textile, Identity and Innovation" which aims to bring together the different scientific domains around the textile area. He is a guest lecturer at the Doctoral Program in Fashion Design at the University of Minho in collaboration with the Beira Interior University, where he collaborates in the teaching of "Interfaces Design Fashion and Technology". Cristina Carvalho was born in 1968 in Alpedrinha / Fundão, Portugal, graduated in Textile Engineering (Production Branch) at the University of Beira Interior in 1993. She gained a Master's Degree in Biochemical Engineering / Biotechnology in 1999 at Instituto Superior Técnico of the Technical University of Lisbon. She obtained a PhD in Biotechnology in 2006 from the Instituto Superior Técnico, Technical University of Lisbon. She is a researcher at the CIAUD of the Faculty of Architecture since 2007 and has been an executive member of the Research Center since 2009. Between 2008 and 2012 she coordinated the Master's Degree in Fashion Design (2nd cycle) and is also a lecturer in the Fashion Design graduation course in the areas of the Technologies and Materials and in Ecodesign, in the Doctoral Degree in Design she has been professor of the curricular unit of Laboratory III since 2014 in the Faculty of Architecture of UTL She has been a member of the FA Council since 2012.