Insights on Fashion Journalism

This collection surveys the key debates and issues that currently face fashion journalism, going beyond traditional print media to consider its multiple contexts and iterations in an ever-evolving post-digital media environment. Bringing together a diverse range of contributors, Insights on Fashion Journalism explores the characteristics, complexities, shifts and specificities of the field. The book is organized into three sections, mapping fashion journalism’s established and emerging practices and exploring its parameters from mainstream to marginal. Section One focuses on the complex relationships between those who practice fashion journalism, the fashion industry and the media context in which they operate;Section Two considers the ways in which fashion journalism responds to the socio-political and cultural contexts in which it is created, as well as the impact these contexts have on tone, content and style; andSection Three investigates how language is employed in different media. Approaching fashion journalism through a critically diverse lens, this collection is an asset for academics and students in the fields of fashion studies, journalism, communication, cultural studies and digital media.

List of tables and figures Acknowledgements List of contributors Introduction, Rosie Findlay and Johannes Reponen Section One: Make It Work From Typewriter to Smartphone: How Changing Capture and Delivery Systems Have Influenced the Practice of Fashion Journalism, Josephine Collins The Politics of Fashion Criticism: How Newspaper Journalists’ Evaluative Criteria for Fashion Changed Between 1949-2010, Aurelie Van de Peer KPI-Chasers, Content Farmers, and "Slashers": New Challenges to Hong Kong Fashion Journalists in the Digital Age, Tommy Tse and Gloria Lam A Wealth of Feedback: Interview with Sarah Shannon, Editorial Director of Vogue Business, Johannes Reponen Mode and Mode: Fashion Publishing in the Margins, Laura Gardner Section Two: Fashion Speaks Reporting Fashion: Fashioning Moving Images from Newsfilms to Webseries, Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén Dazed Media: Making an Impact, Priya Matadeen How the East Was Worn: Negotiating National Heritage in the First Issues of Vogue Ukraine and Vogue Russia, Jana Melkumova-Reynolds Fashion for a Cause: Crafting an Image of Authenticity and Wellbeing in Indian Fashion Magazines, Arti Sandhu Section Three: Matters of Style What a Difference a Page Makes: Contextualising Suzy Menkes’ Fashion Criticism Within and Across Media Outlets, Katie Baker Jones Dapper Kid: Blogging Menswear, Syed Ahsan Abbas Fashion as Mood, Style as Atmosphere: Literary Non-Fiction Fashion Writing on SSENSE and in London Review of Looks, Rosie Findlay Talking Fashion i. ‘The Conversations’, Jason Campbell and Henrietta Gallina ii. ‘Dress Fancy’, Lucy Clayton and Benjamin Linley Wild iii. ‘Fashion Is Your Business’, Marc Raco Index

Dr Rosie Findlay is Lecturer in Media Studies at the University of Kent and has published widely on digital and print fashion media, postfeminist consumer culture, and embodiment and dress. Her monograph Personal Style Blogs: Appearances that Fascinate was published in 2017. Johannes Reponen is a Director of Post-Graduate Programmes; Academic Affairs; Research & Knowledge Exchange at Condé Nast College of Fashion and Design in London. His research centres on fashion journalism, criticism and media.